Zagoria Valley Trek - Southern Albania

Discover the beauty of the hidden Zagoria Valley. Hike between off-the-beaten-path villages, swim in warm springs, meet friendly hosts, and enjoy home-cooked meals at homestays. Visit the magical stone city of Gjirokaster and modern capital of Tirana.

Highlights:
♦ Vjosa River - one of Europe's last living wild rivers
♦ Zagoria Valley
♦ Museum city of Gjirokastra - a UNESCO World Heritage site

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Itinerary:

Day 1. Arrival - Peshtan
Our staff will meet you in town or at Tirana Airport (TIA) to hand over materials (road book, maps, GPS & SIM card), walk you through the trip, and answer all your questions. Depending on your booking, you're either taken to the bus station for public transport towards the overnight location or depart on a private transfer directly to the doorstep. Driving yourself can also be accommodated.
The transfer into Southern Albania takes up to four hours; it leads past the coastal plain's colorful produce stands and along the mountain-backed Vjosa River to the outskirts of Tepelena. A bold bridge is followed by a narrow road that meanders into the small village of Peshtan, right at the starting point of the hike, and by a cozy, family-run guesthouse. The hostess, Mirela, is a hiker and explorer of the area and the proud owner of an impressive collection of relics from the wars that unfolded in the mountains over the last century. It is time to relax and enjoy her delicious cooking and homemade wine; tomorrow, you will start walking the beautiful Zagoria Valley.
(7 km, ascent +300m descent -150m 3:00h) -/-/D

Day 2. Peshtan - Kala - Limar
Our 5-day trek begins at the edge of the Zagoria River Valley, a pristine tributary within Europe's first Wild River National Park. This secluded landscape is shielded by four imposing mountain ranges, creating a hidden world preserved from modern influence. Entering the valley along an ancient, nearly forgotten caravan route, we follow a path lined with Ottoman bridges and Orthodox churches over the coming days, remnants of the valley's rich past.

Our first walk begins with an ascent through open woodlands to a pass, where the valley's full extent unfolds before us. Descending through terraced fields, we pause in the tiny hamlet of Kala, home to just three remaining residents, and cool off with a wild splash beneath an impressive Ottoman stone bridge.

Following a cobbled caravan, we climb toward Limar, a village with expansive views of majestic Mt Strakavec (1.958 m) and distinctive stone houses. Tonight, we're welcomed into the home of the village teacher, who, over an evening meal of locally sourced ingredients, will share stories of life under communism - a rare firsthand glimpse into the resilience and history of those who called this secluded valley home. (11 km, ascent +750m descent -425m 5:00h) B/LP/D

Day 3. Limar - Doshnice - Hoshteve
Today's route follows footpaths with views of towering mountains above and the Zagoria River winding below. The trail links the remote villages of Leskaj Doshnica and Hoshteve. Passing through these hamlets allows us to meet locals and learn about the traditional ways of life sustained by animal farming, beekeeping, and medicinal herb gathering.

After a coffee break in the village, the basin on top of the Doshnica Waterfall invites us to a cooling dip of our feet. Depending on the water level, we may continue along the stream or backtrack into the village before the final ascent to Hoshteve awaits. Upon reaching the town, we visit the Church of the Holy Apostles, a beautifully preserved treasure of Orthodox heritage, Byzantine frescoes painting, and intricate wood carving - one of the finest in rural Albania.

The modest livelihoods here once spurred mass emigration to Greece. Your hosts and returning diaspora members spent 17 years abroad and have now come home to open a guesthouse where you will be warmly welcomed and served a delicious, home-cooked meal with us.
(11 km, ascent +725m descent -575m 5:30h) B/LP/D

Day 4. Hoshteve - Nivan - Sheper
Today's shorter and easier route invites a more relaxed walking experience dominated by views of Mt. Cajupi (2.145 m). We'll traverse the hamets Vithuq, Koncka, and Nivan to reach Sheper. It is connected by better yet unmade roads, hinting at the outside world's modern influences.

Nivan, once the heart of the commune, reveals remnants of military installations and storage depots, with its central square honoring William Tilman. Celebrated as "the 20th Century's last true explorer", Tilman was a renowned British mountaineer and sailor who fought with the valley's resistance against German occupation during World War II.

As we continue, the trail descends through oak forest to the river, where we'll visit an old monastery and have the option to take a small detour to yet another of Ali Pasha's remaining stone bridges before reaching our final overnight with Antoneta and Mondi, a gifted stone mason,

In Sheper, we find a village where many formerly nomadic Aromanian shepherds were forcefully settled after the borders with neighboring Greece closed in the late 1940s. The ruined museum and nearby buildings are adorned with faded quotes from Marx and Lenin, depicting Albania's complex communist past.
(12.5 km, ascent +600m descent -550m 5:00h) B/LP/D

Day 5. Sheper - Dhembel Pass - Permet
The crossing of the Dhembel-Nemercke Range is the last stage of the trek through the secluded valley, leading back into the outside world. As the drive around takes almost as long as the walk across, the challenging route remains used by locals today. Enver Hoxha's bunkers still protect the entrance to a crack that climbs with fabulous views of Mt. Cajupi (2.145 m) to the top of the mountain. Shepherds come from as far as Konispol, the southernmost point of Albania, to these summer pastures. It isn't uncommon for flocks to travel two weeks to reach the fertile meadows. The alpine valley is bare of trees and flanked by steep slopes; the Dhembel Pass (1450 m) sits at its end and offers views of the Eastern Mountains, across into Greece, and to the city of Permet far below. The long rocky descent requires attention and leads into Leuse, another stone village with an imposing, fresco-covered church - perhaps the most beautiful in Southern Albania. It's only a short walk from here to the centrally located hotel. After a long day, you can put up your tired legs and look forward to the city's cuisine, wines, and raki.

(12.5 km, ascent +600m descent -550m 5:00h) B/LP/D

Day 6. Permet - Sopot Waterfall - Benja - Gjirokaster
The scenery alone is worth the 45-minute drive to today's trailhead. Below, the turquoise waters of Vjosa have dug deep into the rock, and the rugged Mt. Nemercka (2.485 m) above the river towers. From afar, the sheer 650 m high wall of Southern Albania's second-highest summit looks impressive. Still, only a walk along water channels towards the Sopot Waterfall at the wall's base reveals its full extent. Returning from the hike, another unique nature gem at the nearby entrance of the Langarica Canyon waits to surprise. The warm thermal pools of Benje are said to have a healing effect on many ailments. They are a welcome treatment after the last days of hiking. Soak and relax in their sulfuric waters or explore the river canyon on foot. It takes a good 90 min to transfer to Gjirokaster, where you will stay at one of the vernacular mansions of Ottoman architecture in the old town. Start exploring the "City of Stone'' streets and absorb the atmosphere in one of the many small cafes. Tomorrow, there's time for more.
(6 km, ascent +300m descent -300m 2:30h) B/-/-

Day 7. Gjirokaster - Tirane
Famed for its intricate Ottoman mansions, it's also known as the birthplace of dictator Enver Hoxha and Albania's Nobel-nominated writer Ismail Kadare. Protected by the status of "Museum Town," Gjirokaster survived socialist modernization campaigns and is inscribed in the World Heritage List today. Get lost in a maze of narrow, cobbled streets, visit the ethnographic museum in Hoxha's birth house, and climb to the towering castle above. Inside the walls, oddities like an American "spy plane" sit on display, the city museum enlightens with unique insights, and the views from the iconic clock tower over the Drino Valley remind us of the trekking days. One can easily spend more days walking through the neighborhoods or visiting nearby sites. Butrint, the Blue Eye (a karst spring), and the beaches of the Albanian Riviera are also less than a two-hour drive from here. A private transfer or public transport takes you to the centrally located hotel in Tirana (up to 4 h), the modern capital that wants to be everything but Albanian. Visit the Skanderbeg Square and the trendy "Blloku" district to watch the city come to life at night.
(6 km, ascent +250m descent -250m 2h) B/-/-

Day 8. Tirane - TIA
Time permitting, Tirana invites you to explore its streets and sights on a stroll. Sip an espresso in one of the charming bars, observe the busy morning flow, and select special treats as edible souvenirs at the lively "New Bazaar." Are you interested to learn more about the communist past? "Bunkart 2" and "The House of Leaves" provide insights and are only a 5-minute walk away from Tirana's main "Skanderbeg Square". Your multi-faceted journey in Albania ends with a 30-minute transfer to the airport. B/-/-

Difficulty: A moderate tour includes easier, medium-duration, shorter, and more challenging walks. While experience is not necessary, it is desirable. Good health and reasonable fitness are more important. Some walking on loose underfoot, steep sections and occasional longer/more challenging days may be involved, but general conditions will still be fair. A walking day is usually three to five hours, and daily ascents will likely be around 300m to 700m, with an odd day ascending around 800m to 900m.
Recommended equipment: hiking boots, rainwear, sun protection (cream, hat, glasses), 25-30 liters daypack, 1.5-litre water gear, towel, and swimsuit(optional)
Good to know: Summer temperatures in Southern Albania are very high - especially in July and August. The best seasons to travel the South are spring and autumn - up till mid-June and early September. With temperatures above 35 degrees Celsius, the hike will be challenging and risky at strokes.

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Price Includes:
accommodation in guesthouses and local hotels (en-suite)
meals according to the description (B-breakfast: LP- lunch pack: D-dinner)
transfers as foreseen by the itinerary including airport pick-up
luggage transport: one piece up to 15 kg in soft bags only (no suit/flight cases)
materials for a self-guided trip

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Not Included:
international and domestic flight tickets
meals not listed above; drinks other than table water
personal expenses such as gratuities and souvenirs
overseas health insurance (mandatory)

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Gallery

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