Zagoria Valley Trek - Southern Albania

Itinerary:

Day 1. Arrival - Peshtan
Our staff meets you in town or at Tirana Airport (TIA) to hand over materials (road book, maps, GPS & SIM card), walk you through the trip and answer all your questions. Depending on your booking, you're either taken directly to the doorstep by our driver, or you continue with your own vehicle to your first overnight.
The transfer into Southern Albania takes up to four hours, it leads past the coastal plain's colorful produce stands and along the mountain-backed Vjosa River to the outskirts of Tepelena. There, a bold bridge is followed by a narrow road that meanders into the small village Peshtan, right at the starting point of the hike. Tonight, you will experience the area's famed hospitality in one of the family-run guesthouses. Time to relax and enjoy the delicious cooking and home-made wine or raki, tomorrow you start walking the beautiful Zagoria Valley. (7 km, ascent +300m descent -150m 2:24h) -/-/D

Day 2. Peshtan - Kala - Limar

Our 5-day trek begins at the edge of the Zagoria River Valley, a pristine tributary within Europe's first Wild River National Park. This secluded landscape is shielded by four imposing mountains ranges, creating a hidden world preserved from modern influence. Entering the valley along an ancient, nearly forgotten caravan route, we follow over the coming days a path lined with Ottoman bridges and Orthodox churches, remnants of the valley's rich past.

 Our first walk begins with an ascent through open woodlands to a pass, where the valley's full extent unfolds before us Descending through terraced fields, we pause in the tiny hamlet of Kala, home to to just three remaining residents, and cool off with a wild splash beneath an impresive Ottoman stone bridge.

Following a cobbled caravan, we climb toward Limar, a village with expansive views of majestic Mt Strakavec (1.958 m) and distinctive stone houses. Tonight, we're welcomed into the home of the village teacher, Noli and Margerita, who, over an evening meal of locally sourced ingredients, will share stories of life under communism - a rare firsthand glimpse into the resilience and history of those who called this secluded valley home. 

(11 km, ascent +750m descent -425m 4:44h) B/LP/D

Day 3. Limar - Doshnice - Hoshteve

Our route today follows foothpaths with views of towering mountains above and the Zagoria River winding below. The trail links the remote villages of Leskaj and Doshnica and Hoshteve. Passing through these hamlets gives us the opportunity to meet locals learn about the traditional ways of life sustained by animal husbandry, beekeeping, and medicinal herb gathering.

 After a coffee break in the village, the basin on top of the Doshnica Waterfall invites us to a cooling dip of our feet. Depending on the water level, we may continue along the stream or backtrack into the village before the final ascent to Hoshteve awaits. Upon reaching the village, we visit the Church of the Holy Apostles, a beautifully preserved treasure of Orthodox heritage, Byzantine frescoe painting and intricate wood carving - one of the finest in rural Albania.

The modest livelihoods here once spured mass emigration to Greece. Katrina and Ladi, our hosts and members of the returning diaspora, spent 17 years abroad and have now come home to open a guesthouse. We'll be warmly welcomed by Katrina and Ladi, who generously share their story and serve a delicious, home cooked meal with us.

 (14.5 km, ascent +725m descent -575m 5:25h) B/LP/D

Day 4. Hoshteve - Nivan - Sheper

Today’s shorter and easier route invites a more relaxed walking experience, dominated by views of Mt. Cajupi (2.145 m). We'll traverse the hamets Vithuq, Koncka, Nivan, to reach Sheper. Connected by better, yet unmade roads that hint at modern influences from the outside world. Nivan, once the heart of the commune, reveals remnants of military installations and storage depots, with its central square honoring William Tilman. Celebrated as “the 20th Century's last true explorer", Tilman was a renowned British mountaineer and sailor who fought with the valley's resistance against German occupation during World War II.

As we continue, the trail descends through oak forest to the river, where we'll visit an old monastery and have the option to take a small detour to yet another of Ali Pasha’s remaining stone bridges before reaching our final overnight with Antoneta and Mondi, a gifted stone mason,

In Sheper, we find a village where many formerly nomadic Aromanian shepherds were forcefully settled after the borders with neighoring Greece closed in the late 1940s. The ruined museum and nearby buildings are adorned with faded quotes from Marx and Lenin, serving as poignant reminders of Albania's complex communist past. 

(12.5 km, ascent +600m descent -550m 4:41h) B/LP/D

Day 5. Sheper - Dhembel Pass - Permet
The crossing of the Dhembel-Nemercke Range is the last stage of the trek through the secluded valley, leading back into the outside world. As the drive around takes almost as long as the walk across, the challenging route remains in use by locals to this day. Enver Hoxha's bunkers still protect the entrance to a crack that climbs with fabulous views of Mt. Cajupi (2.145 m) to the top of the mountain. Shepherds come from as far as Konispol, the southernmost point of Albania, to these summer pastures. It isn't uncommon for flocks to travel two weeks to reach the fertile meadows. The alpine valley is bare of trees and flanked by steep slopes, the Dhembel Pass (1450 m) sits at its end and offers views of the Eastern Mountains, across into Greece and to the city of Permet far below. The long rocky descent requires attention and leads into Leuse, another stone village with an imposing, fresco-covered church - perhaps the most beautiful in Southern Albania? From here it's only a short walk to the centrally located hotel. After a long day, you can put up the tired leg and look forward to the city’s cuisine, wines and raki. 

(10 km, ascent +625m descent -1250m 5:50h) B/LP/-

Day 6. Permet - Sopot Waterfall - Benja - Gjirokaster
The scenery alone is worth the 45 min drive to today's trailhead. Below, the turquoise waters of Vjosa have dug deep into the rock, above the river towers the rugged Mt. Nemercka (2.485 m). From afar, the sheer, 650 m high wall of Southern Albania's second highest summit looks impressive, but only a walk along water channels towards the Sopot Waterfall at the wall's base reveals its full extent. Returning from the hike, another unique nature gem at the nearby entrance of the Langarica Canyon waits to surprise. The warm thermal pools of Benje are said to have a healing effect on many ailments. They are a welcome treatment after the last days of hiking. Soak and relax in their sulfuric waters or explore the river canyon on foot. From here it takes a good 90 min to transfer to Gjirokaster, where you will stay at one of the vernacular mansions of Ottoman architecture in the old town. Start exploring the streets of the "City of Stone'' and absorb the atmosphere in one of the many small cafes, tomorrow there's time for more.

(6 km, ascent +300m descent -300m 2:21h) B/-/-

Day 7. Gjirokaster - Tirane

Famed for its intricate Ottoman mansions, it's also known as the birthplace of dictator Enver Hoxha and Albania's Nobel-nominated writer Ismail Kadare. Protected by the status of "Museum Town", Gjirokaster survived socialist modernization campaigns and is today inscribed in the World Heritage List. Get lost in a maze of narrow, cobbled streets, visit the ethnographic museum in Hoxha’s birth house and climb to the towering castle above. Inside the walls, oddities like an American “spy plane” sit on display, the city museum enlightens with unique insights and the views from the iconic clock tower over the Drino Valley remind of the trekking days. One can easily spend more days walking through the neighborhoods or visiting nearby sites. Butrint, the Blue Eye (a karst spring) and beaches of the Albanian Riviera are also less than two hours driving from here. A private transfer or public transport takes you to the centrally located hotel in Tirana (up to 4 h), the modern capital that wants to be everything but Albanian. Visit the Skanderbeg Square and trendy "Blloku" district to watch the city come to life at night.

(6 km, ascent +250m descent -250m 2:10h) B/-/-

Day 8. Tirane - TIA
Time permitting, Tirana invites you to explore its streets and sights on a stroll. Sip an espresso in one of the charming bars, observe the busy morning flow and select special treats as edible souvenirs at the lively “New Bazaar”. Interested to learn more about the communist past? “Bunkart 2” and “The House of Leaves” provide insights and are only a 5 min walk away from Tirana’s main "Skanderbeg Square". Your multi-faceted journey in Albania ends with a 30 min transfer to the airport. Thank you for joining our adventure, we hope to see you again in the country of warm hospitality, countless mountains and sun-kissed beaches. B/-/-

Difficulty: A moderate tour includes easier, medium-duration, shorter, and more challenging walks. While experience is not necessary, it is desirable. Good health and reasonable fitness are more important. Some walking on loose underfoot, steep sections and occasional longer/more challenging days may be involved, but general conditions will still be fair. A walking day is usually three to five hours, and daily ascents will likely be around 300m to 700m, with an odd day ascending around 800m to 900m.

Recommended equipment: hiking boots, rainwear, sun protection (cream, hat, glasses), 25-30 liters daypack, 1.5-litre water gear, towel, and swimsuit(optional)
Good to know: Summer temperatures in Southern Albania are very high - especially in July and August. The best seasons to travel the South are spring and autumn - up till mid-June and early September. With temperatures above 35 degrees Celsius, the hike will be challenging and risky at strokes.