Îles du Salut, French Guiana: Paradise with a Past (What You Need to Know About Visitng the Islands)

24.01.2025 06:56

Just off the coast of French Guiana, the Îles du Salut (Salvation Islands) shimmer like emerald jewels in the Atlantic, enticing travelers with their beauty and enigmatic past. The name might suggest refuge, but for most who came here, salvation was the furthest thing from reality. The islands were so named because they offered a safe haven from the deadly diseases that ravaged French Guiana's mainland during the colonial era. Yet, paradoxically, they later became the site of one of the world’s most notorious penal colonies—a place where hope was often extinguished, and survival itself was a struggle.
Today, the Îles du Salut are a fascinating destination for history buffs, nature lovers, and anyone drawn to the intriguing blend of paradise and purgatory that these islands embody. We visit the islands during our combined trip to Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana. Click here to see our itinerary.

The History of the Penal Colony

The Îles du Salut operated as a penal colony from 1852 to 1953, during which time they became known as one of the harshest prison systems in the world. Prisoners were sent from France to serve sentences for crimes ranging from petty theft to political dissent. Life on the islands was grueling: malnutrition, disease, and violence were rampant, and escape was nearly impossible due to the surrounding shark-infested waters.
The islands' notoriety grew in part due to Henri Charrière’s famous memoir, Papillon, which chronicled his daring escape from the penal colony. Though parts of his story remain disputed, the book and its subsequent film adaptations brought global attention to the harsh realities of life on the islands.
Another significant chapter in the islands' history was the Dreyfus Affair, a scandal that rocked France in the late 19th century. Captain Alfred Dreyfus, a Jewish officer in the French army, was falsely accused of treason and sent to Devil’s Island in 1895. His wrongful conviction, rooted in anti-Semitism, became a symbol of injustice and led to a major political and social reckoning in France.

A Trio of Islands, Each with a Tale to Tell

Île Royale: History and Solitude
The largest and most accessible of the islands, Île Royale was the administrative center of the penal colony. As you step ashore, you’ll be greeted by crumbling prison buildings, their moss-covered walls standing as silent witnesses to decades of despair. Wander through the former governor’s house, the hospital, and the cells, and you’ll feel the weight of the stories they hold. But it’s not all gloom. The island’s lush greenery and sweeping ocean views provide a strange yet welcome contrast to its grim past. Keep an eye out for the island’s modern inhabitants—curious monkeys and colorful birds that seem oblivious to the history beneath their feet.

Île Saint-Joseph: The Island of Isolation
If Île Royale was the heart of the operation, Île Saint-Joseph was its shadowy underbelly. This is where prisoners were sent for solitary confinement, their cries swallowed by the dense jungle. The island is quieter than its neighbor, but the eerie silence speaks volumes. Exploring the overgrown ruins here feels like stepping into a time capsule, where nature is slowly reclaiming what man once built.

Devil’s Island: Infamy in Isolation
The smallest and most notorious of the trio, Devil’s Island is steeped in legend. This was the final destination for political prisoners, most famously Captain Alfred Dreyfus, who was wrongfully accused of treason in one of history’s most infamous scandals. The island is off-limits for safety reasons, but you can admire it from a distance, its rocky shores a reminder of its inaccessibility and mystery.

The Islands Today 

Today, the Îles du Salut offer a stark contrast to their grim past. The islands are covered in tropical greenery, with coconut palms swaying in the ocean breeze and hiking trails leading to breathtaking viewpoints. Wildlife thrives here, from playful monkeys and vibrant macaws to the tiny golden frogs that hide in bromeliads.

Practical Information for Visiting Îles du Salut

How to Get There
Boats to the Îles du Salut leave from Kourou, approximately an hour's drive from Cayenne. The journey to Île Royale, the main island, takes about 1 hour by catamaran or motorboat. Day trips last 6–8 hours, including 4–5 hours of exploration time on the islands. If visiting both Île Royale and Île Saint-Joseph, expect a slightly tighter schedule. 

Boat Transfers and Motion Sickness
If you’re prone to motion sickness, prepare accordingly. The waters can be choppy, especially during the rainy season. Bring motion sickness remedies like wristbands or medication. When arriving at the islands, the catamaran or ferry transfers passengers to smaller boats for the final approach. These smaller boats often result in getting splashed, so wear water-resistant clothing or bring a change of clothes.

Trip Options: One or Two Islands
Most trips focus on Île Royale, where you’ll find prison ruins, hiking trails, and a small museum. Some tours include Île Saint-Joseph, quieter and known for its solitary confinement cells. Devil’s Island can only be viewed from afar due to dangerous currents and rocky shores. 

* Our group tour includes visits to Île Saint-Joseph and Île Royale

Swimming on the islands
The surrounding waters have strong currents and sharks, making it unsafe for swimming, except in a few designated areas. A potential option is the Prisoners' Pool on Île Royale, a natural basin used historically for bathing. There are a few options on Île Saint-Joseph as well. We recommend to always consult your guide or operator before going for a swim. 

Meal options during the day trip
The island has a small, basic restaurant located near the pier. It serves local dishes, snacks, and drinks, making it a convenient option for lunch during your visit. The restaurant's offerings are simple and may not cater to all dietary restrictions, so if you have specific preferences, consider bringing your own food.

Staying overnight
You can stay overnight on Île Royale at a rustic guesthouse with limited rooms. We visit the islands only as a day trip during our group tour. 

Exploring on Your Own
Île Royale is easy to explore independently with marked trails and informative plaques at major landmarks. You can visit the crumbling prison buildings, including solitary cells, the church, hospital, and former governor's house, wildlife-filled areas where you’ll spot monkeys, agoutis, and colorful birds.Guided tours are available for deeper historical and ecological insights.

What to Bring

• Essentials: Comfortable walking shoes, sunscreen, bug spray, water, snacks, and a waterproof bag.
• Clothing: Lightweight, quick-drying clothes for boat transfers and protection against splashes.
• Rain Gear: Even in the dry season, occasional showers are common.
• Binoculars or a Camera: Ideal for wildlife spotting and capturing scenic views.

Best Time to Visit
The dry season (July–December) is the best time for smoother boat rides and drier hiking trails. The rainy season (January–June) brings lush greenery but can make trails slippery and increase sea turbulence. The Salvation Islands are closed during rocket launches from the nearby Kourou Space Center.

South America's Forgotten Corner - Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana