Climb Peak Lenin 7134 m, Kyrgyzstan

Climb Peak Lenin 7134 m, Kyrgyzstan

Guaranteed departure dates with experienced mountaineering guide

Pamir is one of the biggest and highest (up to 7495 m-Communism Peak) mountain range at the south of Central Asia. Peak Lenin (7134m), the highest peak of Trans Altai Range and the second highest peak in Pamir, is located in the northern parts of the Pamir Mountains, in Kyrgyzstan. Besides its height, this majestic mountain top, covered by snow and glaciers, is also popular, due to the fact that it actually is the easiest for ascension seven-thousand metres’ peak on the Earth. Nevertheless, this ascent requires experience in altitude, glacier, snow, rescue and camping equipment. The route we pass (Razdelnaya Route) is the most popular one and normally needs no roped climbing.

Highlights:

♦ Peak Lenin (7134m) – considered the easiest peak over 7000m and probably the best background to attack a peak over 8000, afterwards.
♦ Pamir Mountains are located in Central Asia and are formed by the junction of the Tian Shan, Karakorum, Kunlun and Hindu Kush ranges. They are among the world’s highest mountains.
♦ Kyrgyzstan - Landlocked and mountainous, it borders Kazakhstan to the north, Uzbekistan to the west, Tadzhikistan to the southwest and China to the southeast.
 

 


Itinerary:

Day 1. Bishkek
Arrival at Bishkek (the capital of Kyrgyzstan). Meeting at the airport and transfer to the hotel. Note: Depending on your flight you may have to start your journey on the previous day.

Day 2. Bishkek - Osh - Achik Tash
Flight to the city of Osh in the southern part of the country. Transfer to Base Camp Achik-Tash (3600 m), where we stay overnight in double tents.

Day 3. Day for acclimatization and preparation
Preparation day for rest and more acclimatization walks. Climb to Petrovskogo Peak (4830m). A rewarding panorama towards Peak Lenin and its neighbouring summits expects us at the top if the day is clear.  Our guide will brief us on the days ahead and assist with the preparation of the gear. 

Day 4. Camp 1 (C1 - 4400m)
We start early in the morning with ascent to Puteshestvennikov pass (4400m a.s.l.) and the Lenin Glacier. After that a long descent on the slope of the pass is waiting for us. The path is well marked and there is no avalanche danger between BC and C1. 

Day 5. Acclimatization
Climb of Domashniy Peak (4700m). Descent to C1. Prepare for climb to Camp 2.

Days 6-7. Extra days in case of bad weather.

Day 8. Camp 2 (C2-5300m)
We start walking in the direction of the North Wall and the beginning of the snow slope. The route goes up over the western side of the Lenin glacier. We cross it and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2.

Day 9. Camp 3 (C3-6100m)
Today most of the climb goes on exposed fields and probably there will be strong wind. We ascend 25 to 35 degrees slope always keeping to the left of the rock to reach the ridge. From the top of the slope we climb towards Razdelny Peak (6200m a.s.l.), traverse the summit and descend to C3. 

Day 10. Descent to C1 (4400m)


Day 11. Descent to Base camp.
We recommend descent to the base camp after the acclimatization walks. It is situated at an altitude which is most suitable for the human body to relax and acclimatize.

Day 12. Preparation day.

Day 13. Climb to C1 (4400m).

Day 14. Climb to C2 (5300m).

Day 15. Climb to C3 (6100m).

Day 16. Sumit day (7134m)
From camp 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. We follow the broad ridge to a plateau at 6400 meters. We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit. The summit at 7134 meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram. After the climb we descend to C3.

Day 17. Descent from C3 to C1.

Day 18. Descent to Base Camp.

Day 19. Day for rest.

Day 20. BC - Osh
Transfer to Osh city where we stay overnight.

Day 21. Osh - Bishkek
A flight to Bishkek where we stay overnight.

Day 22. Bishkek - departure
Transfer to Bishkek Airport for departure.

 

Visa: entry tourist visa (up to 30 days) can be ontained upon arrival at the airport in Bishkek. EU-nationals do not need a visa (as per 12/11 2012). Holders of other passports should contact the respective embassy well in time before departure.
OBS. All visa information is subject to change and sometimes the information has not come to our knowledge.

Practical information:    1. During the flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek, it is permitted to have 15 kg of the load. Payment for extra kilos appr. 0,5 EUR / kg. 2. If participants of the expedition can not continue the program because of some reasons (stomach or acclimatization problems), they can stay in the Base Camp all the period of the program without additional payment. 3. If the program finishes earlier because of any reasons, we provide service of accommodation in the cities according to the program (Osh 2 nights and 2 nights in Bishkek). The other days will have to be paid extra. 4. Money can be changed in Kyrgyzstan easily (Euros or USD). But please take into account that the small banknotes 1, 5, 10 dollars will be taken by worse rate compared to 50 and 100 banknotes. It is difficult to change old banknotes or with stamps on them. 5. Be very careful when you leave “caches” with food and clothes above 5000m along the route during the acclimatization walks as you may find them stolen in the end which may cost your life if you rely on them.

Recommended travel period of the year:   July - August

Necessary equipment:   Rucksack (90 liters); plastic mountaineering boots; crampons; ice-axe; jumar; safety system; head lamp; 4 season sleeping bag; harness; duvet jacket; “polartex” costume; gore-tex costume; gloves and overmitts; woolen mittens (gore-tex); warm cap; face mask; telescopic trekking sticks; helmet; sunglasses; sun screen lotion (30-50); 2x screw gate karabiners; ice screws. It is not possible to hire personal equipment in BC. You can hire only tent upon request when bookng your expedition. 

 


Price Includes:
experienced English-speaking guide
accommodation in twin rooms at hotels in Bishkek and Osh with breakfast included (altogether 4 overnights)
overnights (twin tents with wooden platforms and mattresses) and full board (breakfast; lunch and dinner) in BC and C1
overnights in permanently installed high-altitude tents in C2 and C3 (3 people per tent)
high-altitude food
lunch en-route between Osh and BC
flight tickets Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek incl. all taxes
airport transfers and transport as per itinerary
visa support letter (if necessary)
permit to the boundary zone
rent of walkie talkie
eco fee and registration with rescue team
complete camp equipment in BC and C1 including: electricity; cook; mess tent; tables; chairs; a mess kit; gas stoves and cooking set etc.
WC; bath and shower in BC; WC in C1
medical aid in the base camp (professional doctor)

Not Included:
international flight tickets to/from Bishkek
Kyrgyz Visa
mountain insurance (Obligatory - to cover rescue by helicopter in case of health problem or accident
personal alpine equipment
porter services
early check-in and late check-out in the hotels in Osh and Bishkek

Additional Services:
porters: BC - C1 (4200 m) - 3 USD/kg; C1 - C2 (5300 m) - 6 USD/kg; C2 - C3 (6100 m) - 8 USD/kg
internet access - 5 USD/hour
rent of personal high-altitude tent (to be requested in advance): 70 USD/program
international call by satellite telephone - 3 USD/min.


Gallery


Climb Peak Lenin 7134 m, Kyrgyzstan (Rated 4.81 / 5 Based on 249 Reviews.)

Tours of this level demand that you be really in good shape. The paths are not always in the best condition and the marking can be scarce. There are day-treks with big ascents and descents. Changing weather conditions /even in midsummer/ play an important role when trekking/cycling at a very high altitude and may cause changes of the preliminary route. This is to be decided by the mountain guide on the spot. Normally, the treks are 6/8h per day, but some can be longer. Preliminary hiking experience is an advantage, but not necessary if you are really in a good shape. Note that during some of the days, you should personally carry your baggage, which is naturally an additional difficulty. No rock/ice climbing experience is needed.

Group Size
Min. 1 person
Reservation System Code
KRG_Lenin
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