Climb Peak Lenin 7134 m, Kyrgyzstan

Pamir is one of the biggest and highest (up to 7495 m-Communism Peak) mountain range at the south of Central Asia. Peak Lenin (7134m), the highest peak of Trans Altai Range and the second highest peak in Pamir, is located in the northern parts of the Pamir Mountains, in Kyrgyzstan. Besides its height, this majestic mountain top, covered by snow and glaciers, is also popular, due to the fact that it actually is the easiest for ascension seven-thousand metres’ peak on the Earth. Nevertheless, this ascent requires experience in altitude, glacier, snow, rescue and camping equipment. The route we pass (Razdelnaya Route) is the most popular one and normally needs no roped climbing.

Highlights:
♦ Peak Lenin (7134m) - considered the easiest peak over 7000m and probably the best background to attack a peak over 8000, afterwards.
♦ Pamir Mountains are located in Central Asia and are formed by the junction of the Tian Shan, Karakorum, Kunlun and Hindu Kush ranges. They are among the world’s highest mountains.
♦ Kyrgyzstan - Landlocked and mountainous, it borders Kazakhstan to the north, Uzbekistan to the west, Tadzhikistan to the southwest and China to the southeast.
♦ Excellent acclimatization & climbing 4 tops in total: Edelweiss peak (4805 m) + Yukhin peak (5130 m) + Razdelnaya peak (6148 m) + Lenin peak (7134 m).

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Day 1. Arrvial to Osh. Transfer Osh – BC “Achik-Tash” (3600 m)
In Osh, you will be met by our representative, and then on our transport you will be delivered to the Achik-Tash Base Camp. In the camp you will be met by the head or administrator of the camp, who will accommodate you and provide all the necessary information.

Day 2. Acclimatization at the Base Camp, a walk to the waterfall
After breakfast – acclimatization walk. Return to dinner. After lunch, rest, checking high-altitude equipment.

Day 3. Acclimatization climb to the ridge of Petrovsky peak
After breakfast, acclimatization hike to the ridge of Petrovsky peak. Ascent until we reach snow line, to a height of 4000 m. From the ridge, a breathtaking view of the Alai Valley and the tract Achik-Tash opens. Return to Base Camp for dinner. Rest, preparation for the transition to Camp 1.

Day 4. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m)
After breakfast, exit to Camp 1. The luggage can be transported on a horseback (for an additional fee). From BC to "Lukovaya Polyana" – 1 hour way on foot, but can be reached by transport. Further, you go along a good path through Puteshestvennikov Pass and along the slopes of the spur to the right of the Lenin glacier to Camp 1, approximate time 4-5 hours. Camp 1 is located on a moraine. Before reaching it, you must cross the river.

Day 5. Climbing the peak of Yukhin 5100 m or Home Peak 4700 m
After breakfast you will go for ascent Yuhin Peak or Home Peak, the ascent is not technical and you don’t need special equipment. Overnight in C1.

Day 6. Ice classes. Preparation for the ascent
In the morning, ice classes. You must remember the rules of movement on the glacier, work on ligaments, provide self-rescue skills and rescue the injured from an ice crack. Climbing preparation. Preparation of the necessary equipment for climbing to Camp 2 (5300m).

Day 7. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m)
From C1 to C2 they leave one hour before dawn to avoid heat and wet snow. As you crossed the moraine and approached the foot of the northern slope, it is necessary to move in a ligament and put on crampons. Further, rise in the center of the steep northern slope, to the left of the icefall, there are many ice cracks on the way. The most dangerous and difficult places are hung with a railing. In the upper part of the ascent, the route goes to the right, to the vast ice plateau called "Skovorodka". Cross the plateau from left to right. On the surface moraine at the base of the northwest ridge, at an altitude of 5300 m, is С2. Average time is 7-9 hours. Overnight in tents in Camp 2. Self cooking.

Day 8. Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m)
Start at 9 o`clock in the morning. Movement in crampons and ligaments. As overcame a steep takeoff, the route goes to a gentle northwest ridge. Further, left along the ridge to a steep take-off of the Razdelnaya peak. C3 is located on the spacious dome of the peak at an altitude of 6100 m. From C2 to C3 it will take 4-6 hours. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking.

Day 9. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m)
Early in the morning, you start descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Movement in crampons and ligaments. Lunch at Camp 1. After lunch, you go down to the base camp. Dinner at the base camp.

Day 10. Rest day
Rest at the Base Camp.

Day 11. Preparation for the ascent
Rest at the Base Camp, climbing preparation.

Day 12. Trekking to Camp 1 (4400 m)
After the acclimatization, the ascent requires less effort and time.

Day 13. Ascent to Camp 2 (5300 m)
Departure at 4 a.m. Ascent along the northern slope of Lenin peak. Movement in crampons, in ligaments, overcoming glacial cracks. After the acclimatization, the transition requires less effort and time. Overnight in tents at Camp 2. Self cooking.

Day 14. Ascent to Camp 3 (6100 m)
Start at 9 o`clock in the morning. Immediately after the camp, a steep take-off on the ridge. Moving along a wide ridge and again abrupt take-off to the top of the peak Razdelnaya. Movement in crampons and ligaments. The average walking time is 4-6 hours. After the acclimatization, the transition requires less time and effort. Overnight at Camp 3, self-cooking. Preparing for the climb.

Day 15. Ascent to the top of Lenin peak 7134 m. And descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m)
Leaving Camp 3 before dawn. Movement in crampons. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep take-off to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. Holding onto the left side of the ridge, move to the top. Having overcome a steep (45 degrees) icy take-off of 80 m in length, called a “knife”, and passing between the rocks, the route crosses the extensive gentle snow – the “plateau of skydivers” and goes out onto the gentle slope of rocky hills. There are no obvious directions, and in conditions of insufficient visibility it is easy to get lost. There is a small nust of Lenin of the top of the peak.

An important safety rule: if by 2 o`clock in the afternoon you have not reached the summit, you must immediately start descending to assault camp!

Day 16. Descent to Camp 1 (4400 m)
Early in the morning you start your descent from Camp 3 to Camp 1. Moving in crampons and in ligaments. Lunch at Camp 1. Rest.

Day 17. Descent to the Base Camp (3600 m)
Transfer to the Base Camp. The cargo can be sent by horse (extra charge). Solemn rewarding of the climbers in the Base Camp.

Day 18. Reserve day
Reserve day in case of bad weather.

Day 19. Transfer BC “Achik-Tash” – Osh. Hotel accommodation
After breakfast transfer to Osh city. There will be a lunchbox for lunch. Upon arrival, accommodation at the hotel.

Day 20. Transfer to the airport. Departure home
The driver will pick you up from the hotel at the required time and take you to the airport for the desired flight.

Necessary equipment: Rucksack (90 liters); plastic mountaineering boots; crampons; ice-axe; jumar; safety system; head lamp; 4 season sleeping bag; harness; duvet jacket; polartex costume; gore-tex costume; gloves and overmitts; woolen mittens (gore-tex); warm cap; face mask; telescopic trekking sticks; helmet; sunglasses; sun screen lotion (30-50); 2x screw gate karabiners; ice screws. It is not possible to hire personal equipment in BC. You can hire only tent upon request when bookng your expedition.

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Price Includes:
High-altitude guide services – 1 guide is working with 3 pax maximum
set of high-altitude products
installed high-altitude tents at 5300 m and 6100 m (for 2 people)
boundary zone permit
OVIR registration
meeting and seeing off to / from the airport
transfer Osh - BC Achik-Tash - Osh (according to the schedule)
Transfer BC - Lukovaya Polyana - BC (according to schedule)
аccommodation in a hotel with breakfast in Osh - 1 night (early check-in for additional payment)
Lunch boxes on the road Osh - Achik-Tash - Osh
аccommodation in BC and C1 (according a program) in tents (2 people). Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms. In the Base Camp - electricity is supplied to each tent
three meals a day in BC and in C1 according to the "buffet" system. C1 provides an early breakfast from 3:00 to 4:00 on request
Group equipment: rope; gas stove; cooking set; 2 pc of gas cartridges (230 gr)
use of the dining room; toilet; storage room
in BC - hot shower; in C1 - washroom
in BC - a constant source of electricity - 220V; in L1 - electricity from a generator 220V - 50HZ from 18:00 to 22:00
supplying with the radio contact on the route
Internet
registration in the rescue team
ecological fee
first aid and consultation of doctor in BC and C1

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Not Included:
international flight tickets to/from Osh
Kyrgyz Visa (if needed)
medical expenses and insurance (Obligatory - to cover rescue by helicopter in case of health problem or accident)
personal alpine equipment
porter services

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Additional Services:
porters: BC - C1 (4200 m) - 3 USD/kg; C1 - C2 (5300 m) - 6 USD/kg; C2 - C3 (6100 m) - 8 USD/kg
internet access - 5 USD/hour
70 USD/program
international call by satellite telephone - 3 USD/min.

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