Climbing Mount Elbrus (Russia)
The highest European point – Mount Elbrus, is a crater of an extinct volcano on a side ridge of the Russian Caucasus Mountains. Its double headed snow covered peak and its glaciers (the longest of them is 8,2 km) are traditional targets for many climbers. The high altitude (835 meters higher than Mont Blanc), accompanied by lack of oxygen and strong wind are the main difficulties climbers face on the way to the Elbrus top. Yet those who reached the top enjoy the right to be considered true climbers - which is one reason this route is so popular.
We stay in Baxan valley (2000m) and Barrels camp (3750m) and do some acclimatization treks gradually increasing the altitude from 2000 to 4600m (using of gondola lifts is also included). After a day for rest at the Barrels camp we start for the ascent very early in the morning (3 am) and after around 8 hours of climbing we reach the top of Europe. We spend some time for taking photos and enjoy the view and go down the same way for about 5 hours. After an overnight at the Barrels camp we descend to Baxan valley, where we spend the last night of this memorable mountaineering expedition.
FOR DETAILED INFORMAITON PLEASE LOOK AT THE TRIP DOSSIER (AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE)
Tour Highlights
• Caucasus Mountains range, stretching about 1,127 kilometers (about 700 miles) between Black and Caspian seas
• The highest point of Europe - Mt. Elbrus
• Moscow - the capital of Russia.
| Departure dates: | Status |
|---|---|
| 13 June 2010 | --- |
| 20 June 2010 | --- |
| 27 June 2010 | --- |
| 04 July 2010 | --- |
| 11 July 2010 | --- |
| 18 July 2010 | --- |
| 08 August 2010 | --- |
| 15 August 2010 | --- |
| 22 August 2010 | Guaranteed departure |
| 29 August 2010 | Guaranteed departure |
| 04 September 2010 | Guaranteed departure |
| 11 September 2010 | Guaranteed departure |
Country region: Caucasus Mountains
Price without flight ticket: 840 EUR
Additional price information: The price does not include National Park “Prielbrussie” permit (including massive of Mt.Elbrus) 23 EURO per person(subject to change)
Trip plan:
Day 1: Arrive in Mineralnye Vody Airport and bus transfer to the Baxan Valley. Evening check of everybody’s equipment by the guides – they will advice you if you need something more for the climbing and how to get it (usually you have to rent it). We stay overnight in a hotel, situated in the village of Terskol.
Day 2: After breakfast we make acclimatization hike to Cheget Peak (3050 m a.s.l.). En-route we pass by the famous Ai cafe (2750 m a.s.l.) where one can appreciate the panoramic view of the Baxan Valley and the twin summits of Mt. EIbrus. After climbing the peak we descend to the hotel. The late afternoon is free (5hrs walk).
Day 3: Today we have an acclimatization hike in the Terskol Valley up to an observatory (3100 m a.s.l.), providing very close and magnificient view of Mt. EIbrus. Highlight of the route is the waterfall, called the “Virgin hairs”, where tourists have rest. Then we return to the hotel for a lunch. Afternoon is free (4-5hrs walk).
Day 4: We reach Mir lift station at 3500 m a.s.l. by gondola and chair lift and then head for the first summit acclimatization walk up to Refuge “11-th” (Priut 11) at 4100 m a.s.l. Then we head back to the hotel for overnight (4hrs walk).
Day 5: Ascend to Karabashi lift station at 3750 m a.s.l. by gondola and chair lift. Check in the Barrels Refuge. After lunch - acclimatization ascent to the Pastukhov Rocks (4650 m a.s.l.). We will enjoy the breath taking panorama to the Central Caucasus Massif (with peaks like Uzba – 4700 m a.s.l., Dongus Orun – 4564 m a.s.l., Nakra Tau – 4270 m a.s.l. etc.). Overnight at the Barrels (4hrs walk).
Day 6: Rest day. Could be used individually for more acclimatization hikes. If the group is experienced we could try to reach the summit today (depending on the weather and the guide’s judgment).
Day 7: Summit day. We have to start very early (at 03.00 a.m.). Using headlamps we make our way to Pastuhov Rocks where we stop for a short rest and some drinks (Snow-cat could also be used in order to save time and energy for the summit itself). The route after the rocks goes steep and straight heading to the foothills of the Eastern peak of Elbrus. Than the path turns almost horizontally and leads to the saddle (5300 m a.s.l.) between the two peaks (3,30 hours walk from Pastuhov Rocks). After long and necessary break here we continue walking on a steep slope, reaching a flat terrain just before the peak (1,30 hours walk from the saddle to the peak). The reward is to stand on top of the highest mountain in Europe (5642 m a.s.l.). After some time spend there for taking pictures we head back to the Barrels. Actually people are not in a hurry on the way back and it takes about 4-5 hours.
Day 8: Descent to Baxan Valley by the gondola-lift. We will have free time for hiking in the region. We stay overnight in the hotel in Terskol.
Day 9: Transfer to Mineralnye Vody Airport. Departure flight to Moscow.
Price of extra services: Any kind of equipment could be rented in Cheget or Terskol (plastic boots, ice axe, crampons, ski poles, carabiners, harness, sunglasses, thermos etc.). Some of these necessary things are also available at the Barrels (ice axes, crampons etc.), but plastic shoes could be found only in the valley. Rent per day varies between 2 and 6 Euro for each of them (at the Barrels you can pay in Euro for this stuff). For the summit day most of the groups use the Snow-cat (Ratrack) to get to Pastuhov Rocks faster and to save some time and energy for the real climbing afterwards. The run costs appr. 200-250 Euro no matter the number of passengers (if they are 10 this means 20-25 Euro/pax). Single supplement 115 EUR (not possible at the Barrels).
Included in the price: transfers to/from Mineralnye Vody airport to Baxan Valley; lift transfers as per itinerary (days 4,5 and 8); accommodation in double room in the hotel (days 1, 2, 3 and 8) and in a dorm at the Barrels camps (6 beds per barrel); full board (breakfast, lunch and dinner); English-speaking mountain guide throughout the trip (1 guide for 4-5 tourists during the summit day); cook at the Barrels; Caucasus National Park permit; visa support
Excluded from the price: flight tickets to/from Mineralnye Vody; Russian visa; National Park “Prielbrussie” permit (including massive of Mt.Elbrus) 23 EURO per person(subject to change); rental of equipment; hire of snow cat; alcohol drinks; personal expenses.
Practical information: Guides: The guides used are very experienced Russian mountaineers who climb the peak usually about 10 times a year or more. One English-speaking guide is provided to 4-5 tourists.Terrain and hiking: Elbrus is a volcanic massif to the north of the Caucasus Main Ridge. The glacier above the Barrels gets melted in the afternoon during sunny days and small rivers and water bodies appear, requiring plastic or high leather waterproof boots. The trip is not technically difficult but requires crampons and ice axe. Systematic program of acclimatization is essential prior to making the ascent. The climb itself may take between 6-10 hours; the descent another 3-5 hours. The main obstacles are high altitude, fog, wind and cold. The concentration of oxygen above 5000 m a.s.l. is 50% of its presence by the sea level and most of its goes for the breathing muscles. After Pastuhov Rocks normally you have to rest each 10-20 m. Symptoms of Altitude Sickness could occur anytime and should be considered seriously (loosing balance, headache, nausea etc.) requiring an immediate descent to a lower altitude. Before the saddle between the two peaks the group usually divides into separate people going after each other on a different distance. It is essential to find and follow your own pace, to take as much rest as you need in order to reach the peak. Forcing your body to follow the speed of the other people could result in impossibility to proceed even before the saddle and the steep slope after it! Weather: Temperatures could be very changeable, ranging from +20-30oC in the valley to -10oC by the Barrels Refuge. In the Barrels the temperature drops in the morning to 3-5oC. There is a huge difference in the temperature of the shades and the lit by the sun places. Cold weather should always be taken in mind when climbing Mt. Elbrus since the conditions above 4500 m a.s.l. could worsen any time! Strong winds and temperatures of -15-25oC are quite normal above Pastuhov Rocks.
Recommended travel period of the year: June - August
Necessary equipment: Obligatory: rucksacks (a bigger one, ranging 80-90 l and a smaller one – 35-50 l); sleeping bag (with comfort temperature about 0oC; able to handle temperatures of -15oC); trekking underwear (not cotton!); trekking waterproof shoes for the acclimatization hikes; sweater; rain jacket (breathable); light jacket; sun hat; woolen or special trekking socks; sun glasses with side covers (high altitude); down jacket; plastic shoes for the summit days (some people choose a combination of very heavy leather mountaineering boots (with suitable sole to attach crampons) and supergaiters – sometimes it may be enough but if the equipment is not first class you may freeze your feet; cool feet could force you to turn back, or result in frostbite); 10-12 points crampons; harness; 2-3 carabiners; light ice axe; medical kit (including articulation cream and sunburn salve); headlamp; lip balm; sunscreen lotion (factor 30-60); telescopic ski poles; thick mittens/gloves (overmitts may be used too); face mask; thermal bottle; toilet paper;
Tour difficulty: D 
Tours of this level demand that you be really in good shape. The paths are not always in the best condition and the marking can be scarce. There are day-treks with big ascents and descents. Changing weather conditions /even in midsummer/ play an important role when trekking/cycling at a very high altitude and may cause changes of the preliminary route. This is to be decided by the mountain guide on the spot. Normally, the treks are 6/8h per day, but some can be longer. Preliminary hiking experience is an advantage, but not necessary if you are really in a good shape. Note that during some of the days, you should personally carry your baggage, which is naturally an additional difficulty. No rock/ice climbing experience is needed.
Group Size: Min. 1 person
Reservation System Code: RUCaucasus
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